By bus, from the bus terminal of Tres Cruzes to Montevideo, check the timetable at www.trescruzes.com.uy to Cabo Polonio or Valizas (next to Cabo Polonio). The journey takes approximately 4hrs (depending on the number of stops) with the majority of buses leaving in the morning. If you have missed the last bus to Cabo, then you could always take the bus to Castillos, and a taxi from there.

The tourist season starts in October (Spring), peaking between the 15th of December and the 15th of March, before tailing off until the winter. From a population of 100 or so, by high season, the number of visitors reaches over a 1000, with tourists lodging in ‘ranchos’, fishermen huts and posadas in a the sort of atmosphere akin to Buzios in the 1960s.

Cabo’s ability to preserve itself from the outside world is part thanks to its tricky access and in part thanks to its status as a National Park that prohibits the use of electricity and running water. Distances are small, so to get around, you walk, to illuminate your house, you light a candle, to flush the toilet, you throw a bucket down the well. Nights are magical and on a clear night, the stars twinkle with an intensity that is hard to believe.  

Forget banks, ATMs and the use of credit cards – you’re best off travelling with US dollars or Uruguayan or Argentina pesos. The closest bank to the village is in Castillos, some 35km from CP.

If you choose self-service accommodation, you’ll find several groceries, the biggest being the Lujanbio at the entrance of the village. You’ll find everything here (food, candles, drinks, cigarettes, bread and icepacks to refresh your beers..) and anything you can’t find, then you can place an order for the next day. You can also charge up your portable phone and connect up to the internet during the time the generator is on.